Return to Culatra Anchorage, Faro

We're back at Culatra anchorage again - on our way back to Portimao.

Really starting to get into this living aboard way of life now. We have been joined by Emma and her friend Ruth for the return journey and it is turning out to be a really pleasant trip.

We spent 4 nights at Ayamunte, doing essential jobs and starting to make lists of what we would like to modify or add to Petronella before we take off next summer for a few months. First on our list is a depth finder a) that works all the time and b) that the helm can see on deck. Apart from that the rest of the things are optional – like holding tanks for when we are in the Meditterranean.

We had heard from Les and Gloria – the boat’s previous owners, that the river Guardiana, which forms the border between Spain and Portugal, was not to be missed so we decided to take Petronella up the river for a couple of days and explore. They were right – it is a magnificent river – very quiet – we saw no more than a couple of ferries and a handful of yachts in the 2 days we were there and most of the houses along the banks were in ruins so very few people too. We managed to sail most of the way up to our first overnight anchorage – just a straight stretch of river bank on the Spanish side. We saw a honey buzzard, kingfishers, egrets, storks and lots of huge fish swirling on the river – though John didn’t manage to catch any of them then spent a very peaceful night watching the almost full moon rise and set over the river. I stayed on deck until 2am it was so magical. Next morning we took the dingy to the bank and went for a walk. That night we anchored in Portugal – weird to sail up a boundary between 2 countries – and went for a beer at one of the local resturants.

We returned to Ayamunte marina on Friday afternoon and made the boat ready for Emma and Ruth’s arrival. The marina was very full but they found us a space when we radioed ahead. Gill slotted her into the berth neatly ready. Then on Saturday we took the ferry cross to Portugal to meet them in from the train station – in a thunderstorm – they were NOT impressed! It says on the weather pages it doesn’t rain in August – it lied! We had Sunday in Ayamunte and then, after a well rehearsed exit from our berth we returned here with thegirls after a flat calm motor on Monday.

This anchorage is still magical. I was calm all yesterday and John and Emma caught last night’s tea for us – more mullet which are really good fried in egg and flour. We all swam and the girls explored the island, learned how to use the dingy (gulp!!) and went to the beach. We watched from the cockpit with horror last night a boat which had gone aground on a sandbank to the east of us and was listing further and further over. As it got dark there were 2 very forlorn looking people standing next to it. But this morning it was no longer there so we assume that it re-floated at high tide early this morning. The winds look set for a good sail back to Portimao on Friday so we will take the opportunity not to motor. Then 4 more days and we come out of the water.

Ayamonte Marina, Spain.

So, slightly further east than when we last posted but not as far as Cadiz. Just when we wanted a westerly wind to push us well into Spain we ended up with two days of light easterlies which made gaining ground very difficult without resorting to the engine.

We left Culatra anchorage early on Friday, the day after Jenny returned home (although she should now be in India). It was pretty bouncy going out through the harbour entrance as the tide had just started to ebb with overfalls and whirlpools at the entrance to make it more exciting. Once out on the big Atlantic again it soon became obvious our target of Mazagon was not going to be achievable without either sailing overnight which we did not want to do or putting up with 10 hours of engine noise, so we headed instead for Tavira. We entered fine just before high water and then tried to work out where the narrow channel went – it seemed to be full of moored local craft. It was very hectic as the ferries were bashing back and forth too. In the end we turned 360 degrees and retereated to the entrance where we briefly anchored. Shortly afterwards a catamaran came out keeping close to but outside the marked channel. We gave that a go and got past the small boats and looked for the anchorage indicated in the pilot. We anchored but the depths were really shallow according to the echo sounder. We lobbed the lead line over and proved to ourselves that by the time the tide was at its lowest we would be 1 metre aground so we quickly scuttled out again before we were stuck on a sand bank. Outside Tavira harbour we had a decision to make – back to Culatra (wimping out), on to Magazon (too far and already too tired after a long day) or anchor off the idyllic beach. We chose the latter. Luckily it was a relatively calm night but when the tide turned it did get very rolly (sp?) indeed. Everything is new, everything is applying our reasonable theoretical knowledge for real for the first time. Anyway looking back on the day we made some good decisions – abandon Magazon and go to Tavira, explore Tavira for the anchorage but don’t get committed and anchor off the beach with plenty of escape routes in case the weather worsened.

Weather the next day was much the same F2 easterly so we decided to head for Ayamonte where we are now – at least we would have made it into Spain. Again pilotage was fine going turning into the lower reaches of the Rio Guardiana and we headed diagonally across the river – and into Spain! Portugal is on the west bank and Spain on the east. We radioed ahead and were told there was a 12m berth for us. As we approached we decided to tie up on the first big (easy) berth and see what the story was. It turned out our berth was at the far end of a pontoon with no room to turn at the end (this is not Petronella’s greatest strength). Gill put on her best Spanish and in the end we were allocated a berth that we could warp her round into, which was good as the wind and tide were now both strong. So we tied up and relaxed. That night we had a well deserved pizza ashore serenaded by the local clarinet player.

Since then its been a combination of jobs and relaxing. The heads (toilet) got blocked with weed at Culatra so we spent a happy day sorting that out – a nice job, especially as the sewage water managed to find its way into the bilges which had to be washed out and disinfected. We leave the smell to your imagination!!! Its not all plain sailing this lark!! We then spent another few hours trying to get the top off the raw water filter which was also becoming seriously weed ridden. Both successful so we progress slowly in the right direction.

Yesterday we went to Portugal on the ferry to buy things (fenders, blanket, pressure cooker etc) and believe it or not to find a launderette as there is not one on this side of the river. Incredible but true! On the ferry back we saw dolphins playing in the water in front of the bridge – picture will be attached – and the ferry captain stopped the ferry for all the passengers to have a good look so it can’t be that usual.

Weather the next day was much the same F2 easterly so we decided to head for Ayamonte where we are now – at least we would have made it into Spain. Again pilotage was fine going turning into the lower reaches of the Rio Guardiana and we headed diagonally across the river – and into Spain! Portugal is on the west bank and Spain on the east. We radioed ahead and were told there was a 12m berth for us. As we approached we decided to tie up on the first big (easy) berth and see what the story was. It turned out our berth was at the far end of a pontoon with no room to turn at the end (this is not Petronella’s greatest strength). Gill put on her best Spanish and in the end we were allocated a berth that we could warp her round into, which was good as the wind and tide were now both strong. So we tied up and relaxed. That night we had a well deserved pizza ashore serenaded by the local clarinet player.

Since then its been a combination of jobs and relaxing. The heads (toilet) got blocked with weed at Culatra so we spent a happy day sorting that out – a nice job, especially as the sewage water managed to find its way into the bilges which had to be washed out and disinfected. We leave the smell to your imagination!!! Its not all plain sailing this lark!! We then spent another few hours trying to get the top off the raw water filter which was also becoming seriously weed ridden. Both successful so we progress slowly in the right direction.

Yesterday we went to Portugal on the ferry to buy things (fenders, blanket, pressure cooker etc) and believe it or not to find a launderette as there is not one on this side of the river. Incredible but true! On the ferry back we saw dolphins playing in the water in front of the bridge – picture will be attached – and the ferry captain stopped the ferry for all the passengers to have a good look so it can’t be that usual. Today we had ice cream and slush, cleaned Petronella, chatted to a couple of other boat people and got this internet connection working. It has been hot (32 degrees) but it doesn’t feel too bad as we are on the water.
It was really windy last night but it seems to be quietening down now so the plan is to spend a couple of days ‘up the Guardiana’ (the river between Portugal and Spain) before returning here to meet Emma and her friend Ruth who will get the train from Faro on Saturday.

Today we had ice cream and slush, cleaned Petronella, chatted to a couple of other boat people and got this internet connection working. It has been hot (32 degrees) but it doesn’t feel too bad as we are on the water.
It was really windy last night but it seems to be quietening down now so the plan is to spend a couple of days ‘up the Guardiana’ (the river between Portugal and Spain) before returning here to meet Emma and her friend Ruth who will get the train from Faro on Saturday.

Culatra Anchorage, Faro

Well we have moved 40 miles further east in preparation for getting Jenny to the airport on Thursday. Been fairly eventful – had some very windy afternoons and at night until 10 ish – in fact on the last night at Portimao John spent several hours plotting our swinging circle using the GPS to see whether we were drifting back onto a sea wall - bit hairy at night - should have trusted Petronella – far from drifting back the anchor was so stuck in the sea bed we had to use the boat speed to break it out when we finally left.

The morning we left Portimao we were off at 6 am- at least we would have been except that in the strong wind the mizzen halliard managed to get stuck behind the steps so John climbed the mast - in the dark to the strains of a very loud disco which was just winding up with the DJ saying “Not everybody understands House music” As we had lain awake most of the night listening to the racket he would have better said “Not everyone can stand house music”! Have to say that choosing 6am in the dark to climb your first mast may not appear to be very sensible – but we needed the mizzen and it had been far too windy the day before to go up the mast. I winched him up and he mananged to flick the halyard away from the mast steps just fine. Jen slept through the whole thing.

Had a nice sail here until the wind died then we motored as we wanted to hit the Faro entrance on a rising tide - getting stuck on a sand bank at the highest tide for 2 weeks is not my idea of fun. We had a fairly tense but actually really good passage into the lagoon – really strong spring tide with overfalls to either side of the main passage. We followed a boat in but they went wrong turned round and stuck like glue to us – guess they thought that if we were still moving then it would be ok for them!! Anchored OK then Jen and I went for an explore of a truly random place – weird collection of fishing huts, old shacks, boats in all stages of decay, nets everywhere and holiday makers ambling around with buckets and spades. Had a most welcome beer then back to the boat for John’s morning’s fish – 3 rather small but nevertheless very tasty mackerel, with spuds, carrots and lemon.

Yesterday morning Jenny and I caught the ferry into Olhao then a bus into Faro. Had a mooch round Faro which made her think that Portugal is not so awful – so far she is not very impressed – the people are not very friendly and the places we have anchored at have been close to discos and rather scratty. Then back to Olhao to catch the ferry back. John met us in in the dinghy and we had beers before returning to Petronella for the catch of the day – 3 big mullet caught in 20 minutes.

This morning John and I took the dinghy to Culatra and had an explore of the place, finding the beach on the south side of the dunes and walking back via the shallow lagoon where various catamarans are anchored and live-aboards have set up home in in the dunes. Very weird place. Jenny wanted to go for a proper sail so we upped anchor and went out past the lighthouse and onto the sea. Within 30 minutes it had gone from almost flat calm to blowing a hooly – it was really nice to sail Petronella in some wind – though it got a bit much after a while and we had to get the sails in in a hurry as it was blowing up all the time. Came back into the anchorage with the tide and the wind behind us – we rocketed in – luckily we knew the way now as our marker buoys and leading lights flashed past!! Dropped anchor in more or less the same place and watched as the waves grew bigger then started to break in the anchorage and then 2 boats dragged their anchors at the same time. The unattended motor boat just behind us came loose and drifted down onto another boat where it’s anchor got tangled in theirs – the 4 people on the sailing boat had a difficult hour holding the motor boat off with fenders and boat hooks until the rescue boat arrived - complete with 3 Ronaldo lookalikes in black neoprene- Jenny was MOST impressed. They spent 30 minutes getting the loose boat under control before they towed it away – not sure how much damage it did to the other boat but if there had not been people on board it might well have holed it. We were really lucky that the wind wasn’t in the opposite direction as it would have hit us instead! Mind you, a 15 ton steel boat should come off better than a small fibreglass motor boat.

Jenny leaves us tomorrow and will be in India on Monday – can’t keep up with her!! We have a week on our own and then Emma and Ruth come out to join us for the last two weeks. We are intending to go to Spain for a few days before picking the girls up on the Portugal/Spanish border.


Bye for now.
John & Gill

Lagos Marina

Well, we have been on the water for 3 days now and so far it has been much less traumatic than last time we came out here. Things are much more familiar and it is so much easier to do things, having done them once before.

We arrived out here on Monday and spent the day getting the batteries charged, washing the boat down and getting shopping in – quite a feat in 30 degree heat. Jen arrived at 9.55pm, which was just great and we had a late meal on the boat and a few cold beers to celebrate her arrival.

On Tuesday we put all the sails on the boat – much easier with 3 of us – and then Jen and I did a mega shop - she is amazingly strong and thinks nothing of carrying 3 5 litre bottles back to the boat in her arms – as well as a rucksack full of beers and tins. We did have to stop off at the fishermen’s café for a cold beer though – at 1 Euro 30 for 2 beers life in Portugal is not expensive. In the meantime John looked over the engine and topped up all the oils. That night we went into Portimao for a meal and ended up in a World Press exhibition looking at the best of 2007 photos. Somewhat sobering.






On Wednesday we put Petronella in the water – a textbook example of how a launch should go – we were wise to the charging procedure and John had his multi meter to check the state of the batteries so she started first time like a dream. We motored to the anchorage at the mouth of the river and Jen and I had a much needed swim from the boat – lovely warm and clear water – nice to be back on the sea again. The pump for the handwashing water in the toilet refused to work so John took it to pieces and cleaned it out and it now works like a dream - although he did nearly inhale the ball from the valve whilst sucking to see if it was actually working after he had fixed it!! That night it was quite rocky with wash from the fishermen’s boats but it didn’t keep us awake for long.

Yesterday we went for “sea trials” and put all the sails up and tested everything out Had a great sail out but the wind dropped and we motored the last bit back to the anchorage. Then today we have motored to Lagos and we are tied up in the marina, not without drama but we survived thanks to a friendly bunch of Irishmen who took our warps for us at the opportune moment!! Now we have done the shopping and bought such exciting things as hand held flares to replace those that have expired, and are going out tonight for a meal in Lagos. John is scrubbing down the decks, Jen is off for a shower and I feel a beer moment coming on!!

Petronella - Portugal August 2007

John and Gill's adventures in southern Portugal on board Petronella.



August 2007