We left Culatra anchorage early on Friday, the day after Jenny returned home (although she should now be in India). It was pretty bouncy going out through the harbour entrance as the tide had just started to ebb with overfalls and whirlpools at the entrance to make it more exciting. Once out on the big Atlantic again it soon became obvious our target of Mazagon was not going to be achievable without either sailing overnight which we did not want to do or putting up with 10 hours of engine noise, so we headed instead for Tavira. We entered fine just before high water and then tried to work out where the narrow channel went – it seemed to be full of moored local craft. It was very hectic as the ferries were bashing back and forth too. In the end we turned 360 degrees and retereated to the entrance where we briefly anchored. Shortly afterwards a catamaran came out keeping close to but outside the marked channel. We gave that a go and got past the small boats and looked for the anchorage indicated in the pilot. We anchored but the depths were really shallow according to the echo sounder. We lobbed the lead line over and proved to ourselves that by the time the tide was at its lowest we would be 1 metre aground so we quickly scuttled out again before we were stuck on a sand bank. Outside Tavira harbour we had a decision to make – back to Culatra (wimping out), on to Magazon (too far and already too tired after a long day) or anchor off the idyllic beach. We chose the latter. Luckily it was a relatively calm night but when the tide turned it did get very rolly (sp?) indeed. Everything is new, everything is applying our reasonable theoretical knowledge for real for the first time. Anyway looking back on the day we made some good decisions – abandon Magazon and go to Tavira, explore Tavira for the anchorage but don’t get committed and anchor off the beach with plenty of escape routes in case the weather worsened.
Weather the next day was much the same F2 easterly so we decided to head for Ayamonte where we are now – at least we would have made it into Spain. Again pilotage was fine going turning into the lower reaches of the Rio Guardiana and we headed diagonally across the river – and into Spain! Portugal is on the west bank and Spain on the east. We radioed ahead and were told there was a 12m berth for us. As we approached we decided to tie up on the first big (easy) berth and see what the story was. It turned out our berth was at the far end of a pontoon with no room to turn at the end (this is not Petronella’s greatest strength). Gill put on her best Spanish and in the end we were allocated a berth that we could warp her round into, which was good as the wind and tide were now both strong. So we tied up and relaxed. That night we had a well deserved pizza ashore serenaded by the local clarinet player.
Since then its been a combination of jobs and relaxing. The heads (toilet) got blocked with weed at Culatra so we spent a happy day sorting that out – a nice job, especially as the sewage water managed to find its way into the bilges which had to be washed out and disinfected. We leave the smell to your imagination!!! Its not all plain sailing this lark!! We then spent another few hours trying to get the top off the raw water filter which was also becoming seriously weed ridden. Both successful so we progress slowly in the right direction.
Yesterday we went to Portugal on the ferry to buy things (fenders, blanket, pressure cooker etc) and believe it or not to find a launderette as there is not one on this side of the river. Incredible but true! On the ferry back we saw dolphins playing in the water in front of the bridge – picture will be attached – and the ferry captain stopped the ferry for all the passengers to have a good look so it can’t be that usual.
Weather the next day was much the same F2 easterly so we decided to head for Ayamonte where we are now – at least we would have made it into Spain. Again pilotage was fine going turning into the lower reaches of the Rio Guardiana and we headed diagonally across the river – and into Spain! Portugal is on the west bank and Spain on the east. We radioed ahead and were told there was a 12m berth for us. As we approached we decided to tie up on the first big (easy) berth and see what the story was. It turned out our berth was at the far end of a pontoon with no room to turn at the end (this is not Petronella’s greatest strength). Gill put on her best Spanish and in the end we were allocated a berth that we could warp her round into, which was good as the wind and tide were now both strong. So we tied up and relaxed. That night we had a well deserved pizza ashore serenaded by the local clarinet player.
Since then its been a combination of jobs and relaxing. The heads (toilet) got blocked with weed at Culatra so we spent a happy day sorting that out – a nice job, especially as the sewage water managed to find its way into the bilges which had to be washed out and disinfected. We leave the smell to your imagination!!! Its not all plain sailing this lark!! We then spent another few hours trying to get the top off the raw water filter which was also becoming seriously weed ridden. Both successful so we progress slowly in the right direction.
Yesterday we went to Portugal on the ferry to buy things (fenders, blanket, pressure cooker etc) and believe it or not to find a launderette as there is not one on this side of the river. Incredible but true! On the ferry back we saw dolphins playing in the water in front of the bridge – picture will be attached – and the ferry captain stopped the ferry for all the passengers to have a good look so it can’t be that usual. Today we had ice cream and slush, cleaned Petronella, chatted to a couple of other boat people and got this internet connection working. It has been hot (32 degrees) but it doesn’t feel too bad as we are on the water.
It was really windy last night but it seems to be quietening down now so the plan is to spend a couple of days ‘up the Guardiana’ (the river between Portugal and Spain) before returning here to meet Emma and her friend Ruth who will get the train from Faro on Saturday.
It was really windy last night but it seems to be quietening down now so the plan is to spend a couple of days ‘up the Guardiana’ (the river between Portugal and Spain) before returning here to meet Emma and her friend Ruth who will get the train from Faro on Saturday.
1 comment:
Good to read all your news. The sun has been shining in Gleaston and your meadow has been mown - "one man went to mow, went to mow a meadow...." which has helped those of us, with small people in tow, who have been plundering your produce! The apples are wonderful and happily have grown low enough for Grace and Connie to choose which ones to pick for themselves. Evie tends to pick up the ones off the ground - which is not such a good idea! We have more plums on our own tree than we know what to do with, so we have left yours for others but we've had a couple of lovely meals from your runner beans - much appreciated with a houseful this weekend. The girls are fascinated by your pond which is covered in duckweed so does not look like a pond at all. What's the betting that one of them falls in before end of the week?! Hope Emma has arrived safely - and we look forward to the next episode of the adventure.
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