Tuesday, 5 January 2016

Playing at being backpackers in Colombia

Current Location: Marriott Hotel, Bogota, Colombia

Until recently my only knowledge of Colombia was of drugs, kidnappings, oppressive regimes, guerillas (Farc?), and maybe some American involvement. Now we are only a few hours drive from the city of Medellin whose famous drugs cartel was said to have supplied 80% of the world's cocaine market during the 70s and 80s. Heady stuff indeed.

I don't pretend to understand the complex politics here in Colombia but you can see a brief history at http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/americas/1212827.stm - complex or what? Suffice to say that parts of the country are now safe to visit and neighbouring Venezuela is now the country to avoid. So, on Jen and Marcus' recommendation we flew, via Argentina, to Bogota. High on a plain in the centre of the country, Bogota lies at over 2,600m. Luckily, due to our incredible(!) fitness, we have not experienced any altitude sickness, just the slightest of breathlessness today when we took the funicular up to 3,200m.

Before we left Uruguay Jenny gave us the sort of 'how to keep safe in Colombia' talk that we might have given her 10 years ago. 'Whatever you do mum, don't get your iPad out in public'.

Back in the UK when we were looking for somewhere to stay in Bogota what should drop into my inbox but a nice email from Marriott hotels telling me if I didn't use a few of the points I had gathered during my GlaxoSmithKline days by the end of January 2016 they would take them away from me. Two problems solved at a stroke! I have to say the Marriott Hotel is absolutely ace, especially for nothing. With a bit of an upgrade we have ended up with an executive room, access to the Exec Lounge including canapes and breakfast. With so few other guests staying the bar staff have become our friends and provided us with bus station information and advice on where to go. They were, however concerned that we wanted to travel by bus and again urged caution especially in the old town, La Candeleria. One of them even wanted to come with us.

As it happened we had a great day -  proper tourists for a day. We walked to the big bus station and booked tickets for tomorrow to Villa da Leyva and then caught a bus to the old town. Public transport is excellent here with separate lanes for buses, with Oyster card equivalent, bikes and cars on the main roads.

We were early to the top of Monserratt hill with a fabulous view back down to the plain and Bogota. Then into La Candeleria, the Old Town. A bit dodgy here and I wouldn't want to be there alone at night but Jen's advice was heeded and we walked round no problem. Lots of hostels (for proper backpackers) and the university is in the same area as well I felt a bit old! For lunch we had Colombian savoury pancakes and I had a hot drink called canelazo (sugar cane drink, cinnamon, cloves, strawberry slices and aguardiente, an anise flavoured liquor) - very good it was too.

Images of Colombia so far? A country trying to get itself back under control, at least in some places. More police and security people than I have ever seen anywhere. Sniffer dogs and bodyguards. The most amazing street art a bit like those in Northern Ireland but in this case mostly advocating peace. Gilly's Spanish coming into its own.


Ah yes. Here's a picture of all our luggage for our time in S America. We think that's not too bad. The younger generation probably think we are travelling too heavy!




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