Security in the West Indies

Blogger: John

Note: This entry does not contain a scary security event [update - oh yes it does now] just some words of caution.

Before we arrived in the Caribbean, security both of Petronella and ourselves was a key concern. In fact at one time we weren't even going to come across because of the perceived risk. In Lanzarote you may recall we had burglar bars fitted to all our opening hatches. They are removable but we have kept the centre (living room) and aft one (our bedroom) locked in place. We've been using our burglar bars at night on all hatches since St Lucia which means instead of being attacked by machete wielding locals we now risk instead being burned to death as we struggle to undo the various padlocks.

Two days ago we sailed past Vieux Fort at the southern tip of St Lucia. It was here that a cruiser was murdered last year while trying to protect his wife from attackers that swam out to their boat at night. As far as I know no one was ever charged in this small town where everyone knows everyone else. Last month in the Bahamas, another favourite cruising ground, a British man was killed on his yacht and we have heard of several other less serious events though usually only second hand.

These islands are generally poor and our yachts, even Petronella, must appear like fantastic wealth to men in rags who paddle a treasured windsurf around trying to sell a few windfall mangoes. Yet almost everyone we've met has been polite and courteous. Keen to get some money or a beer from us rich cruisers but generally good, interesting people. [One exception was in St Lucia was where a guy tried to get us to pay for a mooring buoy he said was his but actually belonged to the Park].

Yesterday we went to check in to St Vincent at Wallilibou Bay on the western side of the island. When we chartered here last year (remember the day Dave and Vera?) we were swamped by boat boys and we felt quite uneasy as unrest built amongst the competing hawkers. So now we always lock our dinghy to the boat each night and we leave nothing on deck to tempt curious hands. So far it's all been fine. Anchoring next to Jack and Fizzy's boat with their two large Labradors is probably a good idea too.

During the night in St Vincent we heard a banging on the hull. What's that, someone trying to get on board? Ah no, just the mooring ball tangling in the rudder. Get up, twice, sort it out, and back to bed. Rain starts. Get up, close hatches, and back to bed.

Another night survived in these amazing islands. St Vincent is one of the greenest and prettiest, well known for is ganja production. We are now less than 100 miles from Grenada, right in the south of the chain, not far from South America, where we will haul out for the hurricane season.

Update - We have just heard that friends here in Bequia, Paul and Cathy from Orchard House were mugged last week in St Lucia whilst there with his sister who is OK but badly bruised. You cant be too careful!