Tuesday, 26 May 2015

The Three Joshuas

We are now on Carriacou island, the sister island of Grenada which will be our final destination before returning to the UK at the end of June. Carriacou is another of the former British colonies that we happily gave independence to and then just left to get on with their own devices. Unfortunately they don't have very many devices, so like Dominica, Nevis and Union Island it is now a poor place, and getting poorer as the recent global financial crisis reduces tourist income and increases local debt. But the people are friendly and Tyrell Bay where we are now is a great protected anchorage with a large area of mangroves in which to shelter your yacht when that inevitable summer hurricane comes along.

Since our last posting we have left St Lucia, spent a night on the west coast of St Vincent (ganja capital of the islands) and then sailed to the famous and stunning Tobago Cays for a couple of days.

Tobago Cays
Along the way we met Jeanlouis on his Joshua (Sagarmatha).  Petronella is also a Joshua and this is the first sister ship one we have met on our travels. You can find out more about these amazing boats and Bernard Moitessier who had Number 1 built for a famous round the world race here. Previously owned by the first Frenchman to conquer Mount Everest, Sagarmatha (the boatname is Nepalese for Everest) she is now owned by Johnlouis, a Joshua nut. He has spent hundreds of thousands of euros equipping his boat and now sails her six months of the year in the Caribbean. He told us of Uwe, a legend here in Carriacou, who has also owned a Joshua by the name of Salai for many, many years. We all met up, together with Jack and Fizzy, in a little shack on the outskirts of Tyrell Bay for barbequed ribs, wedges and beers. This is Uwe's weekly haunt. He has built himself both a wooden house overlooking the bay and a thriving maritime business here in the bay. Well respected and with values similar to Moitessier's, Uwe's Joshua is a collection of bits he has gathered togetherduring his life. Winches from little secondhand shops, battens from water pipe, hydraulic self steering from a JCB and masts from whole tree trunks. The antithesis of Sagarmatha; with Petronella somewhere between the two. It's amazing how the same basic hull can be utilised in such different ways.

Petronella, Salai and Sagarmatha in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou
Sagarmatha off Union Island
Petronella beating into the wind
We went sailing on his boat the next day along with Johnlouis and his attractive sailing partner Morgan. Well, what an experience. We sailed with the rails constantly underwater, flying along with sails taught. When the wind picked up and we would be reefing Uwe is cranking in the winches harder and harder til the rails along the side of the boat are 50cms beneath the water. Watch out Petronella we'll be working you harder in the future.

Sailing on Salai with Uwe and Johnlouis

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